Getting accustomed, (un)comfortable, and surprised

We have officially been in Guadalajara for 2 weeks. It feels like much longer sometimes because we have already learned and seen so much. We've been to El Centro (a.k.a. "downtown") Guadalajara a few times, we have been to a classical orchestra concert in the neoclassical Teatro Degallado, we've experienced some of the chaoticness of Mexican culture, we've been to one of the best places in Mexico to buy artesanals, "handmake crafts" (and we bought some beautiful things), we've learned more about our students and their mixed feelings of being Mexican due to cultural, ethnic, and economic influences, and more.

As I mentioned above, we've seen some chaoticness here. I'm thinking specifically of our experience waiting in the "line" to get into the concert at Teatro Degallado (pics of this to come later). Lisset, a very sweet local woman who works at ITJ, invited to the concert. We arrived 2.5 hours early so we could guarentee seats. There was a boggled line and within 1 hour hundreds of more people show up with no idea of where to stand in line, therefore, there was no real line. The Guadalajaran Cultural Center workers come out 30 minutes before the start of the concert and hastily attempt to create a line for about 1,000 hot and tired people. I did not want to sterotype agaist Mexicans so I did not say anything to Lisset about my pre-concieved notions of the haphazardness Mexicans sometimes have when organizing big events like this. However, I did not have to say anything because someone else told Lisset this and she fully agreed! It is easy to see that she loves her Mexican culture, but she was not afraid to complain about it either. Interestling, I think one sure way of seeing that people genuinely like their own culture is when they not only flaunt about its positives but can also complain about its annoyances and inconsistancies. You also feel that you are getting more of an unbaised perspective on a country and its people when you can hear both good and bad from a local.

Two other ITJ teachers took us a nearby town called Tonola. This is where they make some of the best handmade goods in all of Mexico. The people there specialize in glassware, pottery, kitchen goods (plates, bowls, cups, etc.), wall ornamentation, and woden funiture. The goods they make are probably the best we've EVER seen. Everything is handmade with love and attention to detail. I think Tenaya found our entire future kitchen there (see pic below). We desperately want to go back. We bought some lovely - and sturdy - wine glasses from a glass shop. We watched the men making the glassware. We could have watched for probably an hour. They show great care and patience for making beautiful things. Handmade goods usually last much longer than the cheap-brand stuff, and you know where and maybe from whom it was made, giving you a sense of pride in owning it. Unfortunatley in the States high quality handmade goods can br really pricy, while in Tonala the prices are too good to even mention! (you would be shocked and jealous).

Tenaya and I were also fortunate enough to go to my favorite Mexican restaurant in the world - I'm not kidding, it's my favorite in the world. It is a place called Birreria de Nueve Esquians ("Birreria of Nine Corners"). It is a small place near El Centro that specializes in birria, shredded steak marinated and served in tantalizing juices (see Instagram link for pic - try not to drool). If you every come to visit us, we'll go.

I mentioned earlier that some of our students have mixed feelings about their Mexican identity. Please keep in mind that Tenaya and I can not speak into this yet with much detail because this insight is coming from two other ITJ teachers who have taught there the past few years. It seems that the students are torn between taking pride in their Mexican culture and identity and wanting to conform the more popular culture (which is usually upper class white American or European culture). I need to remember that our students are in a complicated space. They mostly come from very wealthy families, are immersed in English (their non-native language) 5 days a week for 9 months out of the year, and form close bonds with teachers from all around the globe. It is hard for Tenaya and I to imagine the cultural forces tugging at their identity. I'm sure we will have more to write about this once we start teaching in a few weeks.

For now...there is much more that could be said, but we must go. We miss you and love you all. Remember us in your thoughts and prayers as we also remember you!

salud,

The Nunez Duo

p.s. The "(un)comfortable" in the title is primarily due to the heat and humidity down here. Imagine Los Angeles heat (which is not so bad) plus about 60% humidity (which is bad). I should also mention that because I am not fluent in Spanish there are sometimes uncomfortable social interactions. I am working hard, however, to improve my Spanish.

p.s.s. Sorry the pictures below are all jumbled with their descriptions. Wix is not very friendly toward posting pictures :(

Above: this is one of the most famous murals Above: This is Tenaya in front of the Guadalajara

in all of Mexico. It's by José Clemente Orozco. Basilica in El Centro. This picture does not do it justice

It's a mural of Father Miguel Hidalgo, one of

the main leaders of the Mexican Revolution

in the early 1800s. The mural is on a ceiling

probably 40 ft. across and 60 ft. tall.

Above: This is Tenaya in the main court area of one Above: This is inside the Basilica. This

if the historic buildings in El Centro picture does not do it justice either

Left: This is in Tonola (where we bought the excellent handcrafts). There was some fesitivites going on when we arrived. This is a play with about 40 people wearing very decorative masks. I'm not sure what they were portraying exactly, but the blond hair and big noses makes me think they were imitating the Spanish. They would run accross and attack other people wearing masks. It seems like they were re-enacting a battle while the three wise men from the Bible sat in big chairs and observed the whole thing. It was both comical and serious. Whatever it was it was easy to see that like many traditional Mexican rituals, skits, etc. we witnessed an events that had a mix of Christian and Mexican indigenous roots.

Below: This is the glassmaking factory!

Below: Basically Tenaya's dream kitchen;

it's all handmade!

#culture #Tonala #handmade #theater #identity