Tapatio Observations/Commentary and Some Pictures

Below you will find some cultural aspects of Guadalajara that Naya and I have noticed over the past 7 months. The observations we chose to share are ones that primarily strike an emotional chord with us. We don’t think you can write about a topic from which you are so actively involved in a purely intellectual manner. It makes us think of anthropological fieldwork. Anthropology a profession involving both theoretical and experiential learning and once you experience something it is impossible only to explain your findings theoretically.

We have included things in this list that we believe our audience would find enjoyable.

From the cultural features we list some we enjoy, others we are impartial, and a few we simply hate. However, we think it’s important for foreigners to be honest about their thoughts and feelings about their new country.

This is a list solely about our observations on Guadalajara culture. We are not pretending to know the intricate details of all of Mexico (if you want something like that read Octavio Paz’s The Labyrinth of Solitude). Some things on this list may even be a stretch for the culture of Guadalajara. However, we are now self-proclaiming armature social anthropologists and if every anthropologist never wrote down and shared their observations because they knew they would probably be wrong about some things then the whole body of anthropological literature would be very small indeed.

Before reading on, keep in mind that “Tapatios” are what people from Guadalajara are sometimes called. This seems to be slang but not derogative. I hope you learn something and enjoy our observational list:

1. Tapatios really love going to the movies. The first time Naya and I went to the movie theater it

was VERY crowded. And most theaters seem to be like this. After talking with Mexican

friends they affirm that going to the movies is very popular down here. The movie theaters are

very nice too.

2. Tapatios on city buses have zero to no common curtesy. When you’re trying to enter or exit a

crowded bus may the Holy Virgin and the Force be with you because you’ll be in for a

challenge. You will sometimes have to squeeze, push, and shove people out of your

way and occasionally yelling to the bus driver to stop. Tapatios rarely say “con permiso” or

“perdón” (both meaning “sorry” or “excuse me”) and when these are actually used they mean

very little when it comes to getting results (like existing a crowded bus!). Also, I think bus

drivers are partially paid by commission. This means that they will continuously allow people

on even when everyone is packed like sardines. We take the bus work every morning and if we

have a bad bus ride it starts our day on a sour note.

3. Almost every clean and overall “nice” neighborhood is a “coto,” which is basically a gated

community. In the States anyone who usually lives in a gated community is considered really

wealthy. Down here it is quite normal. On the same note, nearly every house, whether in a coto

or not, has an ominous gate protecting it and/or steel bars over every window and door.

Tapatios don’t take any precautions. If they don’t allow you in their home then you’re not

getting in!

4. There is no direct Spanish verb for “hike.” You can say the noun “caminata,” but then you

would have to say something like, “We went on a hike” (Fuimos en una caminata). You

cannot say “We hiked today.” I think this is a good reminder that language reflects culture

and vice versa. Going hiking is not something really done here a lot. Tapatios enjoy going to

parks, lakes, and other nature areas, but they do not like going on serious hikes or backpacking

trips. They seem to enjoy more manicured and tame nature as well. In the States-or at least

California-it seems like people enjoy strenuous exercise in the outdoors more.

5. On Friday and Saturday nights Tapatios don’t seem to go out for dinner until 8:30pm or later.

Naya and I actually don’t mind this because when we go out around six we are guaranteed the

best seats in the restaurant!

6. Tapatios use adjectives like “gordo” (fat), “gordita/o (little fatty), “negro” (black) or “negrito/a

(little black) as nouns when describing or explaining someone. Here is an example from a

mother-in- law to her daughter-in-law: “Hello my fatty, how are you?”

Or, here is almost any Tapatio talking about a black person: “Where is the little black

[boy/girl]?”

These examples may seem outrageous to the sensitive ears of an American (e.g. a person from the States). People have probably written whole books dedicated to this topic. But I think it will suffice here to say that-in general-Tapatios simply do not perceive statements like these in a negative light. They are not as politically correct as Americans. They say things how they see them. Naya and have noticed that this is usually not done out of malice or anger. One reason I surmise that they feel free to use this kind of language is because there is not as much diversity here as in the States-or least in California. Sure, you will see some indigenous people and maybe a few Asians or Indians, but compared to Los Angeles, Guadalajara is a land total homogeneousness. I think if you were to travel outside of the city to small pueblos you would probably even hear more statements like this. The lack of diversity is only one reason. I’m sure there are many others.

7. Tapatios work really hard. Most people don’t get off work until 6pm or later. For anyone who makes a blanket claim like, “Mexican’s are lazy,” I would beg to differ. For example, Naya and I see few people begging here. Tapatios will sell just about anything on the street-CDs, movies (probably pirated ones), tamales, elote (corn), fly swatters, candies, nuts, water, and more. At stop lights Tapatios will wash your windows or for your entertainment do circus-like performances and ask for some change. There are of course exceptions. Lazy people exist everywhere; however, Naya and I have seen less laziness here than in the States

8. Tapatios don’t plan ahead when it comes to civil engineering. I know that Los Angeles has some terrible traffic. However, if 60 years ago Tapatio city planners and engineers designed the layout of freeways, buildings, business parks, homes, etc. in the Los Angeles region it would be faster to walk home on foot than sit in your 100 degree car. It seems like the mindset here goes something like this: “Hey, I think we could make a huge profit if we built a movie theater and mall here.” Then a few years later while a few business men and political leaders make a ton of money you have thousands of Tapatios sitting in traffic for two hours too long to get home.

9. The previous item reminds me of this: Mexican Time. This is a very real thing and it permeates not only the government but nearly every sociocultural aspect of life. For example, when we first moved here we asked our landlady for some window screens. The mosquitos were awful and it was dreadfully hot all the time. She said she would get some in three weeks. Three weeks go by, and then another, and then another, and another….etc. We talked to her a few times and she even had people come measure the windows. The windows were measured three different times by three different people! We eventually went to a business ourselves to ask about getting some. They smiled very warmly and affirmed our flustered little souls, “Don’t worry friend; we will be there Wednesday around 6pm.” Ha…ha…ha…they never even showed up. We even went back to that shop and they basically said the same thing; however, no one ever came….ever. In the end we got some screens from our landlady…five months later. And to top it off they were crappy ones. There are numerous other examples we could give, but just know this: Mexican time is real, so when a Tapatio sincerely says one day or one week you should expect 1 to three months to…never.

10. You DO need to take caution when choosing a taco-eating establishment. While the little taco grills on nearly every corner on a Friday and Saturday night look and smell delectable, beware. If you choose to eat at one of these you may be in for a BAD stomach ache and vomiting. The disappointing fact is that food poisoning can happen at even more established-looking restaurants. There are simply not the same food regulation standards here. Do not let this deter you from sampling Guadalajara’s superb cuisine. But it would be wise to look online for reviews first or ask a friend if it’s a safe bet.

11. Tapatios like Volkswagen Beetles. They seem quite popular here. After doing a few minutes of internet scanning research I discovered that the Beetle has been popular in most of Mexico since the 1960s when a Volkswagen plant opened in Mexico City. Supposedly they are used as taxis in parts of Mexico, but I do not see this in Guadalajara.

12. Tapatios enjoy everything better with chile. “Chile” in Tapati-land usually refers to what in

the States we would call most types of hot sauce. Here Valentina is used a lot. Its logo even

has a map of Jalisco on it. Chile goes on MANY things such as fruit, chips, and most things

salty. At some restaurants they will place it on your table even if what you ordered is not

supposed to be spicy. Here the spice is right always. I thoroughly enjoy this and Tenaya

usually does to. Things will go downhill, however, when Tapatios start using chile on their

ice cream.

13. We do not notice many Tapatios reading for leisure. Actually, we don’t see many reading at all. Of course, as educators and book lovers, we think reading is an essential aspect of maturing and sharpening the mind. And wouldn’t you believe it; we think it’s fun! The reasons for the lack of reading are a mystery to me. In an online article by The Christian Monitor, they describe how the Mexican government is trying to dramatically reduce the price of books in order to spur on more book buying. I hope this helps. The article states: “A recent UNESCO study revealed that Mexicans read on average just over two books per year, while Swedes finish that many every month.” This is sad. I’m glad to proclaim that at the school we teach at our students defy the typical Mexican reading trends. Just a few days ago I had one student excitedly tell me that she was on page 500 of a Harry Potter book. Good for her! Many of our students read at least one book a month I would guess. Their passion for reading may be due to the fact that many of them have grown up in the Instituto de Thomas Jefferson where reading is valued! I think if children are raised in an environment where literacy is cherished then it’s far more likely that they will grow up readers.

14. Uber is a great business in Tapatioland. Tapatios seem to value the ability to start their own business, or at least make their own schedule. The taxi companies hate Urber, but even if Urber were made illegal I doubt it would really stop anyone. Tapatios seem too stubborn and untrusting of the government to really care what they have to say most of the time (and they have good reasons to distrust the government!). Urber is a private business (which it seems like Tapatios appreciate), Tapatios generally are very kind and hospitable, they’re crazy drivers, they’re willing to work looong hours, and there is a lot of driving to do here; so Urber loves Guadalajara and Guadalajara loves Urber.

15. Many Tapatios are shy when it comes to speaking English. This is loco though because when they say they’re not very good they’re typically underestimating themselves. Many Tapatios-especially well educated ones-seem to know enough English to hold a basic conversation. They also seem to understand a lot of spoken English. This is probably because most movies are in English with Spanish subtitles, American music is everywhere, many sign/ads are in English, and they may have family or friends in the States who they speak English with sometimes.

16. Tapatios have a difficult time forming lines. Sometime within the first month we were

here we went to a classical music concert in downtown Guadalajara. There were no ropes

or any kind of organized line-creation system to enter the theater. The “line” kept growing and

when the doors were opened a mass of about 600 Tapatios tried forcing their way to the front.

A Mexican friend we were with along with about 10 other theater employees tired controlling

the chaos. I have a hunch that this is not the first time this has happened and I bet it won’t be the last. I think this speaks to a broader difference between the States and Tapatio culture. In the States events, parties, large gatherings, etc. are organized; while in Tapatioland disorder is supreme. This seems like a worldview difference in the way Mexicans and Americans perceive what is and isn’t “organized.” In the States the concert line occurrence probably seems like a total catastrophe and very unprofessional; however, in Mexico it may be just be normal and acceptable. It is difficult for Naya and me to understand this because we see such simple steps Tapatios could take in order to make their lives less stressful. However, maybe it bothers us more than it bothers them.

17. Tenaya made this next observation and I would have to agree. Tapatios have a different standard of beauty. The typical Anglo United Statesian ideal of beauty is skinnier women with few curves. In Tapatioland curves are all the rage. If a woman has curves…it’s on. They will be whistled at in the street, stared at, and talked to by strangers who have a hard time keeping their eyes above the neck. A woman’s weight does not matter very much. If she’s big or small that’s fine. But if she’s got the curves she’s unstoppable in attracting the attention of men (I’m not claiming it’s always the best kind of attention, but it’s attention nevertheless). When it comes to men in Tapatioland they have it a little easier (typical unfairness right ladies?!). An A-typical attractive man here is “basically the same as an attractive man anywhere else” (Tenaya). The one difference she highlights between here and the States is that while being tall gives men bonus points in the States it does not matter as much here; which is probably because the average Tapatio is shorter than the average American.

18. Tapatios don’t recycle. Of course this is a blanket statement (like many of our observations in this list), but there is some element of truth in it. It is very hard to find a place to recycle anything here. A lot of trash is just burned in fields or open areas-making it stink up whole neighborhoods. I also do not see any recycling places around nor have I heard about anyone doing it. Being from hippiville California recycling is a no-brainer easy-to-do chore. It saves the environment, it gives people jobs, and it can earn you a little extra money; what’s to lose?! Apparently, Tapatios have not heard the memo that recycling is cool and burning trash is bad for just about every aspect of society. On the surface Guadalajara seems like a really trendy and “state-of-the-art” kind of place, but they have a lot of learning to do. Of course, so does the United States and every other country in the world!

19. Tapatios are very warm people. I think the best example comes from a hike Naya and I and two friends recently did. We were a little lost and a local man kindly showed us the right direction. Then he offered us some guayabas from a tree and told us we could get water and food from his home which was just about 50 meters away. He did not even know us! But his smile and offers of food and drink clearly showed us that Tapatios have to be some of the kindest people in the world. Another example comes from one of our neighbors. They are a husband (Oscar) and wife (Terry) and their little girl (Sofie). We can basically expect to be fed whenever we go over there. We can also expect to practice our Spanish in the most welcoming and relaxed environment. And overall, they are simply there for us whenever we need anything.

20. Drug cartels do exist here, but not to the extent or the amount that most Americans probably think. The unfortunate thing is that some people probably would have expected this to be in the first blog entry. The fact is, however, shows like Narcos or Druglandia (I just made that one up, but you know the kind of shows I’m talking about) strike fear in people who are almost guaranteed to never come across a drug cartel in their entire lives. There are parts in Mexico that are more dangerous than others. Michoacan, for example, is just south of Jalisco, and we’ve been told that there are some sketchy places down there. So darn; now we can’t be poking our noses down there in little pueblos asking where we can buy and sell cocaine. In some of the northern states there are some dangerous places too. I will say that there are the very rare drug related murders in the Guadalajara region. I think it was a few years ago that a man was shot in a restaurant crowded with people. He was of course tied up in the drug selling business. These are tragic events. However, they rarely happen in this region.

This is a fine starting list. There are other observations but I will add them at a later time. We hope you have enjoyed these and have learned something new.

#culture